Subtle, simple, slim. A few adjectives that could describe the fly in part II of my soft hackle series.
A fly similar to Stewart's Spider in appearance in function; this no-name pattern is different with regards to it's construction and appearance (due to a different hackle) But, in the end of ends, the hackle is palmered just like the original, the fly is finished behind the eye unlike the original, but, the recipe is just as simple.
Along the banks of the Provo River in late winter/early spring, the "buffalo midge" begins to appear in large numbers. This usually happens when we've received a little relief from winters' steel trap like hold on temps. I've fished this fly going on 2 seasons now and I've been a little hesitant to share. I confess tho, it's been doing me a lot of good, but it's not doing anyone else any good just sitting in my box. Fly fishing is for sharing, right? I hope this bug brings you just as much fun at the vice and success on the water as its done for me.
The buffalo midge can be cause for much excitement as they are a species that is quite larger (14-16) than our "normal" tailwater sized midges (18-24) I like to tie the no-name soft hackle to imitate a mating group of midges, or a "morgy", a term brought to light by the hilariously funny, and moderately dubious, Hank Patterson.
I like to use nano silk from Semperfli as it's very tough, creates very minimal bulk, and flattens out nicely for the split thread technique. For this technique, you would be hard pressed to find a better thread. (I'll have the full lineup of colors, sizes up on my store on this site in the very near future)
(Nano Silk is great for a number of reasons, a few of them being that it lays super flat and is very tough. I could easily break this name brand hook with tension of the thread...ya, that strong!)
(After I split the flat thread w/a bodkin, I then insert the feather in between strands w/the natural curve facing down. Keeping the stem attached will help you to accomplish this as the stem acts as a handle.)
(Once the feather is introduced to the thread, I then trim the stem. You can align the feather so that it lays directly down the middle of the stem. Note the dark vein running down the center of the feather; this creates the illusion of the thorax in this fly and other standard soft hackles)
(Spin the thread in a clockwise direction making sure that the feather stays put and doesn't slide out. You'll notice how the barbs of the feather will flare out under the tension of the thread. Once the barbs flare out close to 90 degrees from the thread, I then wet my fingers w/water and stroke all of them to the right. If you're a right handed tyer, you'll stroke the barbs to the left)
(Wrap in open wraps from rear to front. Here I've wrapped approx 5 open spirals to the front of the hook. That small piece of stem sticking out at the front of the hook can simply be trimmed out. Note that sexy, thorax created by the natural appearance of the feather running up the shank.)
(This dog hunts!)
The hackle feather is from a Whiting Farms Brahma Hen Cape dyed Med. Dun. I LOVE this type
of feather because it's appearance creates the illusion of a thorax when wrapped on the collar
or spiral wrapped in the technique I've used below. This eliminates the need for a dubbed
underbody, thus keeping the fly more sparse and streamlined; which in my opinion is
critical to the overall performance of the fly. You've heard the term, "less is more".
Enter the "no name soft hackle" It doesn't get much more simple than this.
Here's the recipe:
Hook: Wet Fly Hook
Thread: Nano Silk 12/0 black (you could use any color, really. Just as long as it's Nano Silk)
Hackle: Brahma Hen Cape dyed Med. Dun
-Grant (The Fly Ninja)